When to Plant:
After the last frost in your area.
Soil should be around 15°C or warmer.
What you’ll need
Garden spade
Dahlia tubers
Compost or well-rotted manure (optional)
Mulch (optional)
Stakes (for tall varieties)
Where to Plant:
Sunlight: Full sun (at least 6–8 hours per day).
Soil: Well-drained, loose, and fertile. Avoid soggy areas.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Prep the Soil:
Loosen the soil to about 30cm deep.
Mix in compost if the soil is heavy or poor.
Dig a Hole:
About 15cm deep and wide enough to spread the tuber out without cramping.
Place the Tuber:
Lay it horizontally with the “eye” (small bump where the sprout will grow) facing up.
The eye is usually at the “crown” or where the tubers meet.
Cover:
Backfill the hole with soil, covering the tuber by about 10cm.
Spacing:
Home gardens 40-80cm apart.
Commercial 30-40cm apart.
Watering:
Don’t water right away—wait until you see growth above the soil.
After that, water deeply a couple times a week, depending on the weather.
Staking (if needed):
Insert a sturdy stake next to the tuber when planting, so you don’t damage it later.
Tie the plant gently as it grows.
Mulch (optional):
Apply a light layer once plants are established to retain moisture and control weeds.
Bonus Tips:
Pinching: When plants reach about 30cm tall, pinch out the growing tip to encourage bushier growth.
Deadheading: Remove spent blooms to keep flowers coming.
Feeding: Fertilise every few weeks with a low-nitrogen fertilizer.
Pest & Disease Watch:
Watch for slugs/snails (especially early on), aphids, or mildew - spray with a pesticide if required.
Good airflow and spacing help prevent disease.
DIGGING & DIVIDING
DAHLIA TUBERS
When to Dig Up Dahlia Tubers:
After the first frost has blackened the foliage.
Wait a few days for the sugars to return to the tubers, but don’t leave them in soggy soil too long.
If you don’t get frosts, wait until the leaves have turned yellow or died back naturally.
How to Dig Up Dahlia Tubers:
Cut Back the Stems:
Chop them to about 10-15cm tall.
Label the variety if you care about names/colors.
Gently Loosen the Soil:
Use a garden fork, starting 30-40cm from the stem to avoid damaging the tubers.
Carefully lift the entire clump out.
Shake Off Soil & Rinse:
Let them dry slightly so the soil crumbles off.
Rinse gently with a hose if needed to see the structure.
If you don’t plan on dividing them until spring you can store them with the dirt still on.
Dry Before Dividing:
Let them air-dry in a cool, dry, shaded spot for 1-2 days.
This makes them easier to handle and helps prevent rot.
How to Divide Dahlia Tubers:
Here’s where it gets real!
Find the “Crown”:
That’s where all the tubers meet the old stem.
Look for "eyes" (tiny bumps or buds) near the crown—each division must have at least one eye to grow!
Cut with Clean Tools:
Use a sharp knife or pruners (sterilized with rubbing alcohol).
Slice through the crown to separate tubers with eyes.
Toss Any Bad Ones:
Discard tubers that are:
Mushy
Shriveled
Broken off with no crown or eye
Optional – Dust with Sulfur:
You can dust the cut ends with sulfur powder to prevent rot.
How to Store Them (Post-Division):
Cure for 1–3 Days:
Store them in a cool, dry place out of direct sun.
Pack for Storage:
Use vermiculite, wood shavings, or sand.
Layer tubers in a cardboard box or paper bag—make sure they’re not touching.
Store Cool & Dark:
Ideal temp: (4–10°C)
A basement, garage, or spare fridge works.
Check Monthly:
Toss any that rot or shrivel.
Lightly mist if they seem too dry.